Stubborn oil drain plug caused by hot oil?

Are you using the right wrench? The proper wrench will not damage the plug regardless of the temperature, and if using the wrong wrench, you could be stripping the plug. If the plug is already stripped, you might want to let it cool so you can work on the problem and not burn yourself. The plug could have also been over torqued, and the heat could be adding to the issue. If over torqued, you can cool the plug while the engine is hot (Cold will shrink the plug a small amount), and allow for easier removal.

Make sure that you're using the proper socket or combination wrench. If it's not american, it will be metric, if it is american, it may or may not be metric. There is rarely a good reason to use an adjustable wrench (usually if you need two of the same size at the same time, or you're dealing with a large size that you don't have a wrench or socket for). If you've already begun to strip your drain plug head, you can buy a new one. Also, don't over tighten it, and use a new crush washer when replacing the plug.

There are two types of sockets, 6 point and 12 point. If the head of the plug is getting stripped to the point that a 12 point socket isn't able to grip it, a 6 point socket may work better.

Had the same problem on my 95 k1500 with 5.7. What helped me was using a long armed ratchet and spraying the plug and surrounding area with wd40. Took a few tries but eventually you'll get it.

Heat actually makes bolts easier to remove. That's why you find mechanics often heat stuck bolts with butane torch. I don't know why, but it is routinely done.

If all else fails use an impact wrench. The vibration will normally break it loose. If the head is stripped force an smaller socket onto the plug. On 14mm, 9/16 works fine. Next get rid of the stupid metal washer Toyota puts on some units and replace it with an approved substitute. The metal washer is abrasive therefore causing the sticking.

I had the same issue after replacing my engine coolant. I cooled it down a little bit with the cold pack and used a rubber mallet to knock it loose.

Some confusion about what is easier to get off a warm plug or cold. For various reasons it’s not when it’s warm. 1, the metal edges are softer, if you use anything other than the right wrench like a vice grip or crescent wrench, you will screw up you plug after a while. Just get the right tool. I have a tool that has 4 sockets on each end, you just rotate the ends and it’s the beat. Secondly, the metal does expand and the plug gets tighter, yea indeed. So if you’ve damaged your plug and don’t have experience and drive a de won’t car take it to an oil change place they’ll have it out without a word. A professional is the best place to go if you can afford it. Gator grip sockets WILL NOT work on an undamaged plug. I used a counter screw while it was warm. I’ve made this mistake 5 times in my 40 years and. Couple stripped plug holes in the pan. Easy fix, self tapping.

I was having much the same problem as y'all. Until the damned socket slipped off trying to push the damn bolt counter-clockwise. Needless to say, I smashed my fingers. So I tried again with a 15mm socket, a breaker bar and a "crack torch". Didn't move a millimetre... Instead, it ruined my 6pt snap-on socket, burned my arm when it slid off and broke my phone which I was using for light... So I waited until the next day, left work early went to harbor freight and bought a cheap Twist Socket set... It basically was like having a jaws of life grab that bolt and the groan that bolt gave when it finally turned... When it broke loose it sounded like a tree limb cracking... Yep, some A-hole had put Loctite thread sealer on the WHOLE plug. Amateur. Moral of the story? Go buy the twist socket.