Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair Asked by sixstring on July 30, 2020
I’m familiar with SE but new to the Mechanics side of the site.
Anyway, I bought new wheels and tires for my 2005 Mazda 3 S hatch back in June. I upgraded the then-current “MB” brand 16″ aftermarket wheels to “MB” 17″ aftermarkets (since the 3 is supposed to have 17s AFIAK). The standard tire size is P205/50R17 but I bought four Barum Bravirus 3s in P225/45R17 since they were relatively inexpensive and of decent quality (according to Discount Tire). I bought both wheels and tires from Discount Tire in one fell swoop during a sale. Since I upgraded I’ve had constant steering wheel wobble at speeds above 60mph. Before I upgraded, I never felt any wobble, and if there was any it was indiscernible. Here’s what I’ve done so far in attempting to solve the problem:
I’ve already spent enough on this and I really don’t want to pay more to replace rear shocks. I don’t see how replacing the rear shocks would solve steering wheel wobble anyway. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Update: Upon doing some more highway driving, I’ve noticed that the steering wheel now wobbles at speeds as low as 50mph but doesn’t always wobble. (Sometimes it smooths out when I decelerate, like going from 65 to 60.) However, I feel near-persistent throbbing through the gas pedal. No problems driving under 45mph.
I believe Mazdas of those years use hub centered wheels. When they added the hub-rings, did they install the correct size?
Since your car is front wheel drive, you should be able to jack up the tires (both sides) and let the care idle in gear. Any wobble in the wheel will be apparent. Your mechanic can do it for you.
Sometimes when you buy aftermarket wheels, they like to statically balance (weights only on the inside where you can see them or taped on).
As for pulling to the right. Look at the printout they give you from the alignment. If everything is in the green range, look at the castor. A little more caster on the left (giving you a cross castor) can help. If your a big guy, you can also put some weights on the driver's seat when they do the alignment. 150lbs or so. A lot of places seem to skimp on alignment. They set the toe and send you on your way. A real alignment consist of examining all the suspension and steering (Discount should have noticed any worn out parts). Next check vehicle height - make sure springs aren't worn out. Only then can you hook up the machine. Also watch what they are doing. To measure castor you must turn the front wheels left and right. I've seen shops give me a printout saying castor is dead on, except they never moved the steering wheel. IMPOSSIBLE!
Answered by Con FUse on July 30, 2020
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