Fuel efficiency and Shifting/RPM

Well...

• You want the largest possible throttle opening (on naturally aspirated cars anyways) to reduce the vacuum and hence pumping losses, however, you don't want to force the computer out of closed-loop mode... So, roughly 50-75% throttle depending on the vehicle (assuming manual transmission as an automatic will probably grab a less efficient gear in those circumstances).

• You want the RPMs as low as possible as it truly is RPMs that really burn fuel (frictional losses with higher RPMs). However, if the RPMs are too low, then you don't get the benefit of timing advance...

So, "it depends" on naturally aspirated manuals. They give you the most control of how to optimize your fuel usage, but you need to know your specific car. :-) The easiest car to optimize for is the turbo automatic... Drive as slow as possible and hope for the best since you don't really have much control beyond that... :-)

Basically, yes lower rpms == lower consumption but there is a caveat Looking at what your throttle is doing, if you are at low rpm in a high gear but your foot is on the throttle heavy then there is more air coming in and at low rpm valves are open longer so the computer responds with the right amount of fuel for the air you are sucking up with the wide open throttle. You want to get your rpms low but not at the cost of having to open up the throttle. So there is a limit. So pick the highest gearing that a light throttle can handle.

More intuitive, less scientific reply. Fuel economy of my motorcycle (250cc, electronic ignition and FI, thus comparable in behaviour to EFI automobiles), recently dropped off fairly considerably (below 80 with lowest of 76 MPG per fuel-up). Disregarding possible negative influence of winter additives (is there any truth to that?), one thing in common between those less-efficient fuel ups was me lugging it, i.e. shifting gears early, and slowly accelerating.

However, even though I took it easy, the amount of work it had to perform turned out to be higher than normal. Last two fuel-ups I went back to manufacturer-recommended shifting intervals, and my fuel economy went back over 82MPG (85 latest), and with much sprightlier acceleration.

The answer is complicated. Lets say we have two conditions - low revs and high injector times, and twice the revs and half the injector times. In both cases the fuel burned will be the same. This is normal - we need work done and this comes from the fuel. We have to account something else - when engine turns there is friction - the more revolutions will produce more wasted energy. So we want low revs/high. But thats one side of the story - when low rev/ high torque situation is present, there are more vibration which is again wasted energy and not comfortable at all. Some of the peripherals as water and oil pump made to work at high rpm may not be efficient in low rpm , and not enough oil may be present, in this high torque situation leading to even more friction. The alternator has its own efficiency dependent on rpm. Balance is everything - do not force the engine with 1000 rpm , but do not go past half the engine speed if economy is the desired.

In the case of heavy trucks keeping the RPM between 10-15 regardless of gear shifts is the best for fuel efficiency.

The specific answer to your question lies in the BSFC (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption) map for your engine, combined with the desired output.

The BSFC map shows how efficiently the engine converts chemical energy to mechanical work at any given condition.

Here is an example:

Generally speaking, all automotive internal combustion engines are at their most efficient at around 0.3 of peak power, which works out, generally, to about 2000 rpm in the highest gear. The designers tend to set them up that way because these operating points produce a car that feels drivable. All cars are different. Driving behavior plays a huge role in efficieny. You can generally get vastly greater increases in efficiency by learning how to drive efficiently than by detailedly analysing engine efficiency. If you keep your speeds as low as reasonably safe, empty useless weight from the car, keep your tires inflated, and stay off the brake, you're doing about as well as you can. Based on several decades of study and research into fuel economy.

Obviously there are two major things that make a car energy to use. (others effects are not much)

1. Accelerate the Car.
2. maintain the velocity.

1- for the first how much you increase the speed then break, you will waste more energy.

Driving in a fix Speed is More Economy

the energy required for a car to increase its speed can be calculated with this formula:

Energy [Joules] = 0.5 * mass[kg] * ( velocity[meter/second] )^2

for example:

two drivers drive a route with average 108 km/h

driver A accelerate a car to 108 km/h you will need 450 Kj.

0.5 * 1000 * (30)^2 = 450 Kj

driver B would accelerate the car 3 times then breaks. would required 3 times energy for acceleration.

Only Including above Would only correct for In Vacuum Driving.

so there are other rules for an terrestrial vehicle

more energy consuming is maintaining the velocity for this to happen, the consequence of Forces implies to car should be zero. the car engine should resist with two major forces:

Providing this forces requires Engine Energy : Energy = Force X Distance

1. friction
2. AirDrag

The Friction can be calculated using this formula: friction force = support force * friction coefficient

supporting force will be increasing by Mass, Earth Gravitational Acceleration, additional force on top of the vehicle. friction coefficient is related with Wheels width and materials and their deformation. (which Gearing and speed has no effect on them)

Note: just driving with in very high speed formula 1 car will increase on top force significantly.

so driving with 10km/h and 20km/h has same force. 20km/h would require twice power (joule/second) but will end in half of the time.

so: they are equal in friction resistance energy consumption.

but about Air Drag Resistance Conditions Are Different.

Air Drag Force is related to Shape, Cars Cross sectional Area, Air Velocity.

The Velocity is our interest. which depends on Wind and Car Speed. V = Car Speed - (Wind Speed X Cosine(Wind Angle) )

But Force has Cubic Relation with The Speed means:

make speed twice, needs eight time Power, and we will end our journey in half the time, this results in Four Times Energy Consumption for Air Drag Resistance.

Driving Slower Would Significantly Reduce Fuel Consumption

its get more significant in high speeds (80+ km/h) which 80% of fuel consumption is for air drag resistance and 20% is for friction resistance.

This Rules would be perfectly correct for an electric car.

But a Mechanical Car has to Consume Fuel in 4-stroke Engine to make its power, it needs perfect burning and perfect engine breath.

if RPM is low, Engine cannot Breath its required Oxygen (closed throttle) and raw Fuel releases in smoke.

if RPM is high, Engine cannot Breath its required Oxygen (imperfect burnt) and Carbon-monoxide releases in smoke.

The Above Conditions Are Relative (in both we have raw fuel and carbon-monoxide)

The Economy-Friendly Would be The Maximum Torque RPM (my car is 2800 RPM)

Driving in Maximum Torque RPM Would Result in Fuel Perfect Burning

for example i have calculated my efficient maximum torque RPM in each gears as follow:

gear & speed relation :

1(20 km/h),2(40 km/h),3(60 km/h),4(90 km/h),5(110 km/h)

Note: IN CVT Cars we dont have just a few steps, and Every speed after RPM Reach its Point Would be Fuel-Perfect-Burning.

The Above Rule is True For Injector Based Car, Which ECU Controls The Fuel Flow.

For Old Cars, There is One-State Gasoline Flow Screw. in Those Cars, Gears Mostly For Setting Torque And Driving In Higher Gears Is More Fuel-Efficient.

In Carbrator Cars, Driving in High Gears Are More Fuel Efficient

TL;DR;

in Injector based Cars Its More Fuel Efficient to Drive In Maximum Torque, Not Like Old-Cars Which Driving In High Gears Were More Fuel Efficient.

PS: my car is Saipa Pride (injector)

PS: Its Based on My Researches, Internet Searches, Intellectual Toughs, and Calculations. If Some one Thinks I am Wrong, Please Let me Know.

PS: I used to Drive my car in Higher Gear Strategy before, But After Switching to Maximum Torque RPM Strategy, it seems to give me more millage (10% more).for 30 Liter of gasoline it was like 500Km, now it seems like 550km.