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Sonoff Mini with Home Accessory Architect firmware

Home Improvement Asked by retrography on June 17, 2021

I am using a Sonoff Mini in DIY mode with HAA firmware and connected to a wall switch on S1 and S2 connectors. I have wired it like this:

wiring diagram

I am also using the default configuration JSON for Mini offered on the templates webpage:

{"c":{"l":13,"b":[{"g":0,"t":5}]},"a":[{"0":{"r":[{"g":12}]},"1":{"r":[{"g":12,"v":1}]},"b":[{"g":0},{"g":4},{"g":4,"t":0}]}]}

The problem is that actuation using HomeKit doesn’t work at all. I can hear the relay clicking when I try switching on and off, but that does not have any effect on the state of the lamp. The wall switch works, but that does not change the lamp status in Home app. Plus, the LED light connected to Mini flickers.

I wonder if this is a configuration issue or a hardware one.

One Answer

Frame challenge: There are a couple of serious problems, right off the bat.

Sonoff is not legal to use

They sell it knowing this. There are certifications they must obtain, and that would require them to vastly improve their build quality.

All work done in El NEC territory requires equipment to be approved; and that means by a competent NRTL. Sonoff didn't bother to get anything approved, and it doesn't have the marks of any competent lab -- RoHS and CE are not labs at all, and the Chinese consistently fake the CE mark; it is jokingly referred to as "China Export". In the EU, whoever imports a CE-marked device into the EU is responsible for it conforming to Conformité Européenne. So if you got it mail order (even if it came via an Amazon dropship warehouse)... you're the importer! So sadly, as useful as Sonoff devices are, they are simply Chinese dreck from a safety and regulatory view, and should not ever touch mains wiring. You need to investigate other brands that are UL-listed or regional equivalent.

The branch to the switch, and switch, need to be Class 1 wiring methods.

The device needs to be entirely inside a class 1 enclosure, and further, the "low voltage" S1 and S2 leads need to remain in class 1 wiring (i.e. THHN, Romex or twin-and-earth). Further, the switch and its enclosure needs to be mains rated; so a random $1.00 Handy-Box and 60 cent Leviton switch will suffice, but a random toggle switch off Mouser stuffed in a project box will not. S1 and S2 cannot be wired into anything else unless all that, and everything it's wired to, is also inside class 1 enclosures.

I mention all this because this may compel you to a different design method, which would moot your question.

Answered by Harper - Reinstate Monica on June 17, 2021

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