Outdoor spotlight stuck on without a switch

Some motion lights need to be reset, and a quick on off on some models will turn them on while a longer off on cycle may turn it off. It's also possible the sensor has failed. Removing the brown wire going to the fixture will remove the power to the light, the red is normally the output from the sensor, and the blue is neutral or the return. If you add a switch on that brown 1 side going to the switch the other side going back to where the brown was connected, you could control it with the switch. Make sure to make any changes with the power off.

I agree with Harper's comments, and this is strongly supported by your own statement

"My Gran has since forgotten why the bulbs were removed from the outdoor and indoor lights..."

It is most likely that the sensor broke a long time ago, and your Gran - either herself or perhaps asking someone else to - removed both bulbs because they were permanently stuck on, day and night - and rather than get it fixed at that time, "the problem" was removed. You have simply highlighted the old problem. Maybe your dad could shed some light on this.

If obtaining replacement parts (or an entire unit) from the same manufacture is impossible, maybe its time to remove the entire configuration and go back to a basic light switch system.

When you turned off the power did you just turned off the power main power if so then flip it off and back on very quickly if it is the lights that need resetting. Then that should work. Cheers. GT

Hi that light should have been fitted with a fused spur with switch and 100per cent pir has failed due to weather conditions you can then fit a light switch in hall way Allways turning your light power off

Ok... Add a switch. I suggest a 13a switched fused spur unit. But you put a 5a fuse into it.

Really this should have been done when fitted.

Both of the blue /brown / earth wires at the top look to be part of a ring... Which has been broken! (Turn the main incoming power off at the consumer unit and do a continuity test to confirm.)

Put both of the load wires into the load side of the fsu, and both supply lines into the supply side of the fsu.

You can use those terminal blocks and cut some short jumper leads to the terminals if it's tight.

But since you don't know this basic thing ( and you're therefore not legally competent) I'd suggest getting a sparky, ... Electricity kills.

Most sparks only charge about £40 to fit a socket ... This shouldn't be any more difficult.

Also. If this isn't on a rcd circuit, you will need an rcd fsu. All outdoor wiring has to be on an rcd protected circuit.

Also note that those earth cables should have sleeves. It's only about £1.50 in bnq for 5m

A lot of early security lights (and some modern ones) have a feature whereby if you flick the power off and then back on within a few seconds the light will stay on permanently. To make it work normally (switched by the proximity sensor) the power needs to be off for at least 10seconds before going on again. The problem was that a momentary supply glitch would result in the light being on permanently. I agree with comments about broken ring, fused spur, sleeved earth etc.