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How do electric hot water heaters explode and what can be done to prevent that from happening?

Home Improvement Asked on February 21, 2021

My neighbor and good friend is a union steamfitter, and general handyman. He had to replace his electric hot water heater last year and he did it himself.

My wife and I have to replace ours now, and he says its a super simple job and he has offered to help me do it. I came across this article and many others that warn that these heaters can actually explode if installed improperly, and it has us a little concerned (to say the least!).

I understand that the knee jerk, default response in these situations is: if you feel uncomfortable doing this yourself, have a professional do it. And I get that, I really do. I’m just trying to weigh all our options here.

So I ask: under what conditions can electric hot water heaters explode? It sounds like (if I’m reading these articles correctly) that they explode when both the temperature is set too high and the expansion tank is malfunctioning. So if that’s the case, then my followup question might be: OK, well, how hot is “too hot” and how can I test my expansion tank to confirm its functioning properly?!

However, if there are other instances where these types of heaters can explode, I’d like to know about them, and what the diagnostic/operating procedure is to prevent those situations from happening.

At the end of the day, if I don’t feel 100% confident in the process, we’ll have a pro do the install. But if its as simple as checking a few things or taking care to avoid certain specific pitfalls, I’d rather save the ~$2500 and just do the install with the help of my handy friend.

5 Answers

Yes, that's a scary article but keep in mind that both safety devices have to fail to have the tank explode. The pressure release valve and the high limit on the thermostat both have to malfunction. Both of them to my knowledge operate at around 200 degrees F. The maximum you can set most water heaters is 150 degrees F but most recommendations are to set them at no higher than 120 degrees F. Also you should check and test the pressure release valve periodically for leaks and operation.

Replacing the water heater is a relatively easy task. Just make sure it's completely full before turning on the breaker or you could burn out the elements. Also, avoid using those corrugated pipe. Sweat copper tubing all the way. Your steamfitter friend can instruct you on this. Good luck

Correct answer by JACK on February 21, 2021

Well, the answer is right there in the article you linked:

Always check your hot water heater’s pressure relief valve to ensure it is in good working condition. If you have any concerns that your water heater is not functioning accurately, have an inspector come take a look at it.

The best precaution you can take to avoid having this happen to you, is to set your water heater’s temperature no higher than your manufacturers suggested setting.

Note that it talks about the pressure relief valve (technically temperature & pressure relief valve), not an expansion tank. The pressure relief valve is usually mounted on the side of the water heater and looks similar to this (on a new water heater, the piping won't be there): pressure relief valve

To test this valve, remove the piping if you can't see where it terminates (you'll need to see if water is coming out the end). If you can see the end, you can leave the pipe on. Carefully lift the lever on the valve up. Do not lift it all the way as that will lock it in the open position. If you get water coming out, you're good. If not, or the valve is stuck, you'll need to replace the valve.

Regarding the temperature setting, if you stick to the safe range indicated on the thermostat (usually it will say something like danger of scalding for the higher ranges), you will be fine.

Answered by PhilippNagel on February 21, 2021

Consider the sources; it is plumbers giving you a scare story to get you to hire them. See also "aluminum wiring".

It will take a chain of 3 events at once:

  • failure of the thermostat, causing the heater to overheat the water, boiling it.
  • the pressure relief valve fails to operate, preventing the pressure from simply blowing out the relief valve; that's what it's for.
  • water is unable to backflow out to the street, which would also relieve the pressure. This would fail because someone fit a "check valve" to prevent backflow without also fitting a pressure relief valve on the house side.

If it's so unlikely, why does it happen at all? Because it turns into dominoes. First, the city requires retrofit of an anti-backflow check valve. The family either skips the pressure relief valve, or sites it poorly. Second, the house's normal pressure changes cause the pressure relief valve to spit water on their stuff. They angrily cap it off. Solved! Third, the hot water heater's pressure relief valve starts to spit (or is ancient and is silted up or rusted solid). Capping the other one off worked, so they cap this off too. Then, they are down to a single point of failure, the thermostat.

Answered by Harper - Reinstate Monica on February 21, 2021

An electric water heater explodes when the water in it starts boiling, producing pressurized steam that causes the heater to rupture. In order for this to happen, three things all need to fail; if any one of them works properly, no explosion will happen.

  • First, the thermostat needs to get stuck in the "on" position. If it's working normally, or if it sticks in the "off" position, the water in the heater will never get hot enough to start boiling.
  • Second, the high limit switch needs to fail. This switch is a second, non-resetting thermostat that cuts off all power to the water heater if it gets too hot. It's set at the factory to a temperature higher than the main thermostat can be set to, but well below the boiling point of water.
  • Third, the pressure relief valve needs to get stuck closed. This is a valve, usually on the side of the water heater, that will open to release steam or pressurized water. It's set to a pressure above normal water pressure, but well below the maximum pressure the heater can handle.

When installing a water heater, the most important thing is to make sure the pressure relief valve has a free-flowing connection to somewhere where the water can drain. The other safety mechanisms are configured at the factory and are pretty much foolproof, but this one can easily be disabled by improper installation.

Answered by Mark on February 21, 2021

Please don't give advice like it's not going to be that bad of an explosion if you dont know what your talking about. We just had ours explode on us and it was extremely powerful and it had the ceiling come down on us and by the grace of God we are alive. We also got burned with 1st and 2nd degree burns and our hair was burnt. Please please dont leave people to think it could be minor when it could also be terrible.

Answered by Laura Tatum on February 21, 2021

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