How can I replace failing ballasts in recessed CFL housings if I don't have access to the attic?

Question

I have a set of recessed CFL (4-pin) lights and a few of the ballasts are failing (CFLs fail to start randomly, even after replacing them with new sets).

They are NHPSIC-626ELAT, CFL (4-pin) fixtures.

Is there a way to get to the ballast without going through the attic (there is no access in my house)? 
I am thinking about replacing the CFLs with LED retrofits, but either way I have to either replace the ballast or bypass it.

BMitch · Accepted Answer

It appears that you have a "new construction" fixture. These are designed to be installed and accessed when the drywall is down. So to work on this fixture from below, you'll have to cut an opening in the drywall. I would suggest making the opening smaller than 2'x2' so you can use the drywall patches sold by most home improvement stores. Make sure two sides of your cut are in the middle of the joist so you have something to reattach the drywall to when you're finished. And be careful not to cut too deep when opening the drywall, since there could be electric and other utility lines very close to the back side of the drywall.

Rather than just replacing the ballast, you might want to consider replacing the entire fixture with a retrofit or "old work" fixture that's designed to be installed and accessed after the drywall has been put up. The fixture is attached to the drywall directly, instead of to the joists. And the electrical is designed to be pulled through the opening when the fixture is dropped from the ceiling.

Jason · Answer

There are 3 or 4 screws accessible from inside the can. Remove these screws and then push the can up and through the housing. Then you have access to the built in j-box where you can unclip and remove the inside cover to get to the interior ballast wiring.

Answered by Jason on April 5, 2021

Augendoc · Answer

new-work Halo cans are adjustable to accommodate different ceiling height. Remove the reflector trim and the lamp. Then remove the three sheet metal screws from near the bottom of the can. Slowly work the can down and out. There is enough slack in the jacketed cable to let the can hang about six inches below the ceiling. Reach through the hole and unclip the face of the junction box to expose the wiring. With power off you should be able to disconnect the 120VAC. If you want to see how these are wired before you pull the can, go to Home Depot and look at a bare new-work fluorescent can. Anyway, look at the armored wires going from the can to the junction box and make sure the ends inside the box are detached, whether you have to cut them or just remove wire nuts. Then take slip joint pliers and squeeze the end of the cable lock to free the armored section from the junction box and remove and discard the can. Buy a new Edison base Halo H-7ICAT assembly and remove the can portion from the frame as described above. You'll have to cut the push connectors off the end of the wires. Strip 5/8" of insulation off the ends of the wires and reinsert throught the hole in the side of the old junction box until the anchor locks. Attach the can wires to 120VAC, bypassing the ballast, which should be completely disconnected. Replace the metal cover on junction box, reinsert can through the ceiling hole, align screw holes, adjust can height to ceiling thickness, and insert screws. If you want, you can push new insulation through the ceiling hole before reinserting the can. You can also caulk the cracks between the ceiling surface and the edge of the can to make it airtight. Once that's done, remove the socket holder and shield inside the can, attach the Edison base LED pigtail that comes in the LED retrofit kits, install the LED kit and you're done.

I've had to install a bunch of these where I had no attic access. Works great and you don't have to cut the ceiling.

How can I replace failing ballasts in recessed CFL housings if I don't have access to the attic?

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