Home Improvement Asked by PT15 on June 8, 2021
I know this question gets asked a lot, but I can’t seem to make sense of this:
Wires on the left: 2 sets of black/white/ground, one set coming from the light, and one set coming from the panel (I presume). The voltage meter does not register any current on any of these wires, so I assume these are load/neutral/ground wires.
Wires on the right: 1 set of black/red/white/ground coming from the light – what’s confusing me is that both the red and black wires are live. The wires coming from the panel black/white/ground are have no current.
I am trying to hook up 2 new Lutron smart switches. Here is what I tried:
I am trying to install 2 Lutron smart switches, which require a neutral (I figure I just need to attach all the neutrals together).
Where I am mostly confused is line/load. It seems I have 2 line wires coming from the same light – and I imagine I will need to piggyback the left switch to the right, but which line should I piggyback on?
** Edit
This is not how I found it, I unfortunately did not take a picture prior to disconnecting – something I’ll have to remember to do for future reference.
Those 2 black wires coming from the top were twister together, and if my memory serves me right, there was an additional pigtail wire connected.
All of the white wires were tied together.
The reason for investigating, is that when I connected my new Lutron switches, everything worked great for about 2 hours, but eventually the switch on the left stopped responding. I just assumed it was improper wiring (although now I wonder if it’s not the switch itself because wouldn’t improper wiring prevent it from working at all?)
I just tried re-adding the black wire pigtail to the top 2 black wires to create a line to connect to the switch (again I believe this is how it was previously), but what’s strange is that now the white wire coming from the top left has become "hot".
This is in a kitchen, the switches control pot lights above the sink and below the cabinets.
The wire nuts in the back are ground wire extensions – the ground wire was too short to connect, so I added a length of copper wire to connect the extension together.
Partial answer so we can knock out the easy part.
You do not need to run ground wires to switches if the mounting screws go through metal. Those ground via the mounting screws to the metal box. Any ground pigtails on the switches can be capped off, as long as the switch has a metal yoke. (where the screws go).
That doesn't work for receps, unless they're "self-grounding". It looks like that GFCI is self-grounding.
Therefore, all that's left to do is make sure every wire coming into the box is connected to the metal box. I see a generous 6 ground screws, so 1 per screw and you're done with grounds.
Answered by Harper - Reinstate Monica on June 8, 2021
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