By manually impacting and cooling drill bit in water may one slowly drill concrete and bricks without impact function?

Your assumption is incorrect. The impact is what does the drilling, like a micro-chisel, the rotation merely removes the dust, and ensures that the impacts create a circular hole. This is for concrete/brick.

Tile drill-bits are very different, and must not be used with any sort of hammer action (as it would crack the tile).

Drilling through any type of concrete without an impact drill will fail as soon as the bit hits a piece of aggregate. You may get away with it in soft brick/breezeblock, but I wouldn't recommend it.

Note
This was answered before the OP added "manual impacting" to the question

Long before impact drills were available to the residential customer usually due to their high cost, a novice or home owner could replicate the actions of a "hammer drill" by starting to drill a hole in concrete with a concrete bit and if gravel was encountered, a center punch was used to crack the gravel. At that point the drilling could continue.

The drill bit will get too hot when the drill speed is too high or too much pressure is used when drilling. To keep the drill bit cool reduce the drill speed and/or pressure (push) from the drill operator.

I have drilled lots of holes through the concrete with a regular drill without any hammer action. This action is a luxury, a serious one (way easier, no need to pres hardly, the hole diameter is more predictable and correct). But this is not a requirement.

Of course, you need a concrete drill-bit, not the one intended for wood. The intended purpose of the bit should be written on the package.

Yes it can be done, though damage to both the bit & drilling machine may occur. I recommend using a "masonry" bit. It will have what look like small paddles on the tip & will work with or without an impact driver. Coolant is always a good idea, preventing damage to the work, the tools & preventing breathing the dust created by drilling. Just as in the consrction field a concrete saw is used with a constant flow of water & the operator wears a facemask, inhaling the dust can be extremely harmful.

A "Diamond" tip drill bit could also be used, but any impact action will damage it & it MUST be kept cool with constant application of a coolant. Such drill bits are more costly & gentle pressure is best, allowing the diamond bit to do the work, not your muscles. Diamond bits get more expensive as they get larger.

I googled, impact prevents drill bits head from wearing out due to high temperature.

This is only partially correct.

All drill bits get hot. The energy you get from the power cable ultimately ends up as heat, only a tiny fraction is actually used to tear the bonds in the material. (Sir Benjamin Thompspn discovered the mechanical equivalent of heat exactly by boring.)

What the impact does is to make drilling much more efficient in stone/concrete. These materials are resistant to cutting, but are much less resistant to impacts, they are fragile.

Having a way more efficient drilling method you finish drilling faster and the drilling bit gets out of the hole, so it can start to cool down.

Drilling a deep hole in a hard material, you may still benefit from getting the drill bit out once in a while and cooling it by air or water. Or you can use 2 or 3 bits with a different length and change them as you progress deeper.

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And yes, you CAN drill a hole in a stone/concrete/tiles by a rotary, non-impact drill. I did it few times when an impact drill was not available. Sometimes it is faster to leave the drill alone and hammer the drill bit against the wall by hand.

Masonry is way easier than concrete or stone for drilling with a rotary drill.

The first holes I drilled in concrete used an impact-only hand tool, with a hammer. It's the impact that breaks the bits of gravel that give rotary-only drills such a hard time.

It was made by Rawlplug, called a Mason Master. Very slow. You can still get them new, and there are few vintage ones on fleaBay.

An impact drill produces very frequent low energy impacts on the drill bit. An alternative is a pneumatic hammer (usually with SDS+ bit holder) which produces less frequent but higher energy impacts on the drill bit. The difference is impressive - the pneumatic hammer drills concrete much, much faster, even the very hard concrete. The impacts crash the concrete and rotating bit yields you a neat round hole and removes the dust. The bit in a pneumatic hammer may easily get very hot and even lose its properties because of overheating if you don't cool it in between drilling.