Bevel a 2x6 long ways

Question

I need to make a bevel plate (of 10 degrees) to support wooden I-joists on a single slope (shed) roof assembly. I'm working with 2x6s, and I'd really like to cut the ten degree bevel across the 5.5'' dimension of the board, but I am really struggling to figure out how to do it.
Just to be clear, I need to rip these 2x6 long ways, with a 10 degree bevel going the width of the board to support a wooden I-joist at 10 degree angle.
I thought I could cut the boards on both sides with a circular saw, but unless I have a monster (8'' + inches) circular saw they blade is too short for the cut to meet in the middle.
Any ideas?
Update: Just to follow up for those who want the "problem", I have a single slope roof and I am using wooden I-joists for rafters. I am going to use a birdsmouth cut for the lower bearing wall.
For the higher bearing wall, the office documentation for those I-joists (and all other I-joist documentation I have seen) says I need a "bevel plate" (see 10a in the attached).
I think I will end up just putting a 10 degree cut bevel in a 2x4 and putting that on two top plates as suggested here, but open to hearing more ideas and thank you for taking the time.

Aloysius Defenestrate · Accepted Answer

If you have rafters butting, you don't need the whole 2x6 ripped, right? You only need a small notch at a 10 degree angle.
So grab a handsaw, mark the face and edge where you want the cut to stop, make 2 (maybe 3 or 4 if you feel like it) kerfs, then whack at the wedge with a chisel. It'll come out pretty easily.
Rinse and repeat for each rafter.

Ecnerwal · Answer

Bandsaw, but still tricky.
Reliable solution would be to throw away half the board (not get two usable pieces from each board) and use a router sled to plane off the wood not used. Router sleds are an amazing tool to have in your list of options, and produce great work.
Traditional blended approach and probably good enough for framing is to cut both sides with a tablesaw as far as it reaches (which might be more than halfway for a 10" belt-driven saw, and you are done) and then finish with a handsaw guided by the tablesaw kerfs to complete the cut.
If attempting this with a hand-held circular saw: A: Don't B: check your insurance coverage and have someone looking on to call 911. That is a bad cut to try and do with a hand-held circular saw, in my experienced opinion.
I also agree with the commenters that there is no way you need a full width beveled top plate. Normal rectangular top plate and (easily made) wedges under each joist will be done before you are done setting up to make the thing you don't need but think you do.

SaSSafraS1232 · Answer

(Migrating my answer from the closed duplicate question)
The best way to do this is going to be shimming up one side and running the board through a planer.
Basically you'll draw your angle on the endgrain, get a piece of MDF wider and longer than your work piece, then use framing shims to get your line parallel to the sheet of MDF. Tack/screw the shims in place and then tack stops on all the sides of the board to keep it from moving on the MDF. Make sure none of your brad nails/screws will contact the planer blades (or poke through the MDF to hit the planer bed). Then run it through till you hit your line.

Alex · Answer

I had the same problem and decided to split a 2x3 with a table saw to the required angle then lay the 2 pieces side by side to make a 5'' wide bevel plate.

Bevel a 2x6 long ways

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