Bicycles Asked on September 28, 2021
My top cap screw bolt is currently stuck in my compression plug, and I’m seeking some advice on how to remove both the broken bolt and the compression plug.
This was the top cap I was using:
It’s a weightweenie one piece top cap and top cap bolt.
https://www.cycleservicenordic.com/en/products/headset-top-cap/absoluteblack-top-cap-and-bolt-in-one-
My initial installation of the top cap wasn’t perfect for the preload.
Symptoms appeared in the form of loose headset and the top cap bolt becomes stuck.
Tried to unscrew top cap but didn’t work.
Eventually the T25 top cap bolt stripped.
Used Araldite in the bolt and on my T25 key, left it over 2 nights, still didn’t unscrew.
Hence my diagnosis was that during installation, there was cross-threading. But does it explain why it is so insanely difficult to unscrew? Not sure.
Then came the drilling.
My plan was to drill off the top cap, then use some pliers to turn the remaining top cap bolt.
Look where it got me, there doesn’t seem to be any top cap bolt left.
It’s a Bianchi Oltre XR4 fork.
1-1/8inch steerer tube. Rim brakes (no hole in steerer tube).
Compression plug was torqued to 6Nm. Top cap was just lightly hand tight.
Compression plug is from Aliexpress and looks like :
I am not planning to reuse the compression plug so it can be destroyed.
Steerer tube can be cut about another 4-5mm.
I’m not sure if there was actually cross-threading or that the metallic surface somehow fused together (not entirely sure if compression plug is steel or alu).
Please teach me how to remove the whole assembly out of my steerer tube.
Thank you, the Feynmans of the bicycle world!
Can’t you drill out the top cap screw? It’s aluminium, so should be relatively easy to drill and since you don’t care about the compression plug it doesn’t matter if you aren’t perfectly centered. Just make sure you start centered (i.e. use a centre punch).
Otherwise I guess you could also try to hammer down on the remains of the screw to push it through and open the compression plug. But maybe not really advisable with a carbon tube.
Answered by Michael on September 28, 2021
Drilling with a small bit into the edges of the broken top cap screw.
Miraculously, I noticed that the screw loosened itself as it's unwinding little by little from the vibration of the drilling.
Then I used some pliers to unwind it out and was able to find a near-perfect hexagon hole where I can stick my 6mm in.
So...the top cap screw thread doesn't seem to be burred or damaged. Even cosmetically it looks fine.
The black anodising on the thread is consistent and no bubbles or cracks can be seen.
But I'm actually really curious, and want to prevent this from happening again!
Please leave your thoughts below so we can learn more from my mistake together.
Did I start the drillium too early? Was there another solution?
Thanks @Michael and @Carel.
Guess drilling really helped in the end!
Answered by Yuxuan on September 28, 2021
Well done for getting the items out and sharing the progress. Based on your success photos, the topcap is not suitable for the forces placed on it because the ultralight topcap is what broke.
From the Top-cap linked website I read these specs:
Option 1:
Based on the Aliexpress photo you have an expanding compression-style plug, not a star nut as warned off in the description, so one presumes it should be okay.
What I don't understand is why this top cap is stated to not work with a star nut. This leads me to wonder if the compression plug shares some similarities with a star nut such that this top cap is over-stressed.
A star nut does the same task, and I presume has less movement than the rubbery bumpers of the compression plug. Whether that was the cause or not, hard to say.
Option 2: You got a faulty one - some pre-existing damage to the bolt, or a void, or even bad packaging and transit could have pre-weakened the threads. They're only aluminium, so once bent will not straighten.
Option 3: Assembly problem - anodised aluminium tends to slide quite nicely, but raw aluminium doesn't. Could be the inside of the plug's thread was raw, and the anodising rubbed off while tightening, leaving the two surfaces to bind and gall together. As you add torque, the threads lock up and the aluminium bolt gives way.
And the steel thread is stronger than the aluminium one. Perhaps using assembly lube may have stopped this from happening.
Solution: I'd suggest using a regular top cap and steel bolt. If money's no object, a Titanium one has weight-weenie credentials twice over (weight off your bike and off your wallet :-
Answered by Criggie on September 28, 2021
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