How can I prevent bicycle theft while bikepacking?

I would suggest a Pacsafe Security Web or similar product to cover your gear. It is basically a net made of small gauge steel cables. It is designed to cover a backpack along with a long cable to secure it to a tree or other object. As far as the bikes are concerned I would suggest each rider carry a 2 meter or 6 foot cable. If it is a keyed lock make sure a least two different riders have a key. Alternatively a combination lock known to at least two riders. When securing the bikes get them as close together as possible. Lock each bike to two other bikes. Try to secure the wheels to the frames. Use multiple points. Cable A through three rear wheels and around three seatposts. Cable B three front wheels and three down tubes. Cable C through the top tubes. The idea is that the failure of one lock won't leave things unsecured. You can only make things difficult to steal not impossible.

I've done a couple of long radoneuring style rides, where you have to go into every shop in a chain of coffee shops. First time, I was alone and locked my bike up everywhere, which added time.

Later years, we organised a group ride, and made a point of leaving someone with the bikes at every stop.

Simply don't leave your bikes without someone around during the day and they'll be okay.

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At night, I suggest bringing your bike into your tent. Or follow Chris H's method of using the bike as part of your shelter, that way noone can fiddle with it without waking you up.

You could also check with the camping ground staff and see if they have somewhere secure to lock up your bikes overnight. Assuming the campsite is more than just a paddock with pretensions.

Many places have a lockup area suitable for securing bikes overnight, this would be my first choice.

Depending on the culture where you are, in the crowded camp ground environment, striking up a conversation with your neighbour is likely a big. If you are seen talking to them, your bikes become a much riskier target. (and you never know, the last touring cyclists that did that to me were given a cold beer at the end of a long day in 30C temperatures...)

An electronic motion activated alarm can be very useful. However I know a couple had bikes stolen off the back of their RV despite the alarm going off. By the time they were up and out of the RV, there bikes were on the back of a pickup departing the camp ground (however it was an isolated campsite with no other people, in a crowded campsite it would be very unlikely worth the risk)

I would combine a couple of alarms, with multiple cable locks attaching all the bikes in one big pile. Cable up the bikes, put alarms on different cables and cover the bikes. Chances are someone attempting to get to the bikes without setting off an alarm before all the cables are cut and bikes freed would be slim. If leaving the bikes (e.g. for cooking or ablutions) and the camp ground is busy, the alarm should attract enough attention to be a deterrent.

Keep the bike close to your tent. You can even tie the tent to it so it’s impossible to remove the bike without shaking the tent.

While travelling I only carry a small BBB BBL-10 MicroSafe lock (weighs 59g). I jokingly call this my “immobiliser device” (sounds better in my native German („Wegfahrsperre“)). It’s really only good enough to prevent somebody from simply walking away with the bike. A pair of wire cutters would be enough to cut through it. A few minutes of time would be enough to crack the 3 digit code. I still hope it’s sufficient to keep the bike relatively safe while I’m buying groceries for a few minutes or showering.

I also use it at the campground, in addition to keeping the bike close to the tent (or tied to it).

You can also make it harder for a thief by removing both wheels or at least the front wheel (or at least opening the quick release). This makes the bike a much less attractive target and forces a thief to carry the bike instead of simply riding or pushing it.

I used to carry an Abus Granit Futura 64 (strong, small U-Lock, but still a relatively light 726g) but it was just too heavy and cumbersome.

With multiple bikes, locking them together prevents them being picked up or ridden off. The latter is often the biggest risk when camping - simple opportunism.

A reasonably long cable lock would lock all the bikes together (also outside cafes), and if you use it in an awkward position (down near the chainrings), getting cutters to it would be noisy, and tricky in the dark. I like my Masterlock Python for this sort of thing - it can be pulled tight meaning less stray cable at risk of cutting. It could extend into your tent locked to a bag right next to you, if you're worried. In fact even a piece of ground-coloured cord tied to the outermost bike and run through the grass into your tent, where it's tied to your bag or your cooking pots is an effective alarm; you're worried about theft in the dark, so mainly someone quickly picking up a bike and taking it away - if they make a lot of noise they'll run away empty handed.

There are ways to lock bikes to the ground, which I've used while camping. I doubt they're necessary, but I've used this when leaving the bikes on site completely unattended during the day. What I've done is to buy two corkscrew dog stakes, and screw them into the ground as close together as possible. A cable lock run through the triangular handles of both (not the free-spinning leash points) and through the bike(s) is too stiff to allow the stakes to be unscrewed from the ground. If you lean the bikes against each other the right way up, with this arrangement underneath, you can also lock the top tubes together. It can be tricky on rocky ground. Another secure anchor is two sturdy stakes hammered into the ground forming an X, locked together through holes where they cross. This probably means carrying too much weight.

Another suggestion, an additional measure, is to peg down a tarp over the bikes (and any other kit that won't fit into your tents). This will slow down a potential thief, especially if you bang the pegs right down into the ground. They either have to pull the pegs or cut the tarp, before they can even discover how well-locked your bikes are. In addition it protects your stuff from the elements.

A ground anchor, like a corkscrew, often used for tethering dogs, can be a useful tool, complemented with a wire that can be padlocked, possibly even to the sleeper in dire circumstances. If the bike is laid over the eye of the anchor and padlocked directly to it, it makes it an awkward job for a thief.

The subtle use of the "Bisley Mine", which uses a trip wire to fire a BLANK 12 bore cartridge could be just the thing! Wakes you up and scares the hell out of the thief at the same time. On Amazon or eBay.

I have had good experience with U locks. When I regularly commuted between two cities I tied my $1000 bike to a pole or railing with a good U lock (Abus Granite), in the seedy neighborhood of the inner city train stations of Berlin and Hamburg, sometimes for weeks. I did take out the front wheel (which had a quick release) and tied it together with the bike to the fixture.

A couple of things are essential:

1. A good lock, obviously. The most important thing is that it must withstand a simple saw or bolt cutter, probably the most common tools of thieves. This rules out most or all cables like the one depicted in Michael's answer. A lock which can only be cut with an angle grinder is much safer: the noise and fireworks are too conspicuous. Very cheap locks may have crappy lock mechanisms which can be picked too easily; buy brand names or follow reliable test results.
2. Attach it to something stable. Expensive bikes may simply be carried away otherwise, lock and all, which can be cut at home with all the leisure and equipment in the world. The fixture to lock to should be more stable than the lock; tying a cryptonite to a wire mesh fence is useless. The pole of a campground sign, a railing, something like that. For the same reason I'm skeptical about ground screws.
   Perhaps it is sufficient to tie a lot of bikes together (enough of them that they cannot be lifted onto the back of a pickup truck, basically); but that seems cumbersome. And for this strategy as well a wire is not sufficient, tempting as it may be.

While travelling with my bike, I have a few things to secure it and the luggages:

• I have a high quality lock that works with a key that I trust, without encourage you to buy this one, I am pretty satisfied with the foldylock compact. But this doesn't allow to secure the wheels. If you want to be extra cautious, you should take 2 mores locks to secure the front and back wheels.
• I added a really simple custom steel wire loop to secure by bags on the bike using small padlock when going away from the bike for short amount of time. This only avoid someone to just come and grab the full bag. Which I think is enough.
• For the night, I try to attach my bike to something sturdy as close as possible to the tent and I always attach things that would make noise if moving the bike. That's where you can get creative, I usually attach my titanium cup with a carabiner to the rack or directly to the wheel spokes.

The old-fashioned approach

When travelling the world on a sailboat it is necessary to keep someone on watch to avoid collisions. If you have the right combination of larks and night-owls in your party you could actually arrange an overnight watch. I for example would happily take a late watch.

If you are going to a commercial site, check ahead to see if there is safe storage for cycles. In the wilderness or a random field you will naturally be more sensitive to outside human or animal movements because they will be the exception rather than the rule.

The ideal watchdog is a dog. I take my little dog with me in a basket. Dogs will wake up and alert you immediately if there is anything out of the usual.

Alternatively you can get alarms that speak. It is quite unnerving for a thief to hear a loud, "Hey what are you doing?" It will also alert you.

tl;dr: Use a beater bike

By "beater bike," I mean a bike that works well enough, but isn't that expensive. It doesn't have expensive components, and has minimal street value. Something not worth stealing.

As an avid cyclist living in the New Jersey/Newark/NYC area, I've dealt with this my whole life. I've had seven bikes stolen, and countless attacks on my bikes, including seat theft, wheel theft, latches thrown, etc.

Quick story: I lost a beloved $1200 Cannondale to theft. I called the police to fill out a police report. He came down, and looked annoyed with me for wasting his time. I asked him, "Any chance of recovery?" He laughed in my face, and said, "It's probably half-way to Newark by now." Police have bigger fish to fry than chase after bike thieves.

If a thief has tools, there is nothing you can do. A sharp grinding wheel can get through a fahgettaboudit lock in about 1 minute. You can try double-locking, so that they need two sets of tools, but this will only delay an experience thief for maybe another minute.

Personal note: I would advise against confronting a thief--especially in a remote location. They can get aggressive, and may demand that you unlock the bike and give it to them. Perhaps ask for your phone, etc.

The solution is to have several bikes in the stable, for different purposes: A nice mountain bike, a nice road bike, a folding bike, and a beater.

I am very selective about where I use my nice bikes. I lock it up for short intervals (less than 1 hour), and keep an eye on it whenever possible. Whenever I go anywhere with risk of bike theft, I take an old bike that looks like it's been through a war. Works great, gets me where I need to go.

So, get yourself a decent beater bike for the mountain trails; one that you can have fun with, but is beat up and not worth stealing. Lock it up; if it goes, it goes.

You will sleep well knowing that your expensive bike is safely locked up in your home.

Alarms. You just need to wake up when something happens.

In a large noisy camp, you're almost in an urban environment, so supplement the alarms with a lock you'd consider fit for use in the city. In an open field, who's there to steal them?

Even cheap Chinese alarm locks with plastic bodies, quite easy to destroy, will make enough noise to wake you up - the alarm activates on cutting the cable. Use these locks to tie the bikes together, and the bikes to something else like your tent. Doesn't matter if you're unarmed, it's not often that someone would try and use force to rob you of a bike; these are crimes of opportunity.

If you leave your bikes completely unattended, they're a gift to the world either way. A dedicated thief with lots of time can get through any portable lock, or if they can't, they'll just strip the bike and leave you a bare frame, maybe also the rear wheel.

A new generation of alarm type bike GPS trackers are coming out that rely on iot networks https://seesense.cc/products/see-sense-air-pre-order

The most obvious would be to put your bikes in a tent that someone is sleeping in, but this would entail at least one large tent, which is probably not what you want to do. Otherwise:

1. As other users have said, lock the bikes together. If there are any trees, lock the bikes to them.
2. Remove the wheels and lock them to the bikes. Remove the skewers and take them into your tent; then they can't ride the bikes away. If cars can't access your bike route, your thief is reduced to carrying your bike away - not practical
3. Pitch your tents in a circle with your locked bikes in the middle. Peg out the guyropes for thieves to trip over. Their chances of making it to your bikes undetected will be pretty low.

Lastly, if there are no cars and few people, you are less likely to be a victim of bike theft. Thieves like to operate in cities where there are lots of people, and therefore both anonymity and lots of things to steal. They also like to ride bikes away, or take them away in cars - not saying they would never carry a bike away, but it's less of a risk.

Last summer I did a 4500 mile tour, solo. Other than personal injury, theft was my greatest concern. Bathroom breaks/shower I felt most at risk. Every campground I stayed at had a sturdy picnic table or cooker cemented to the ground. I locked the bike to either & put the tent within 5 feet feeling I would awake to an intruder. For food breaks, I kept the locked bike in sight at all times.
my suggestion are; 1 at night lock bikes together to a sturdy object with several cable locks. The balanced can with a rock in it is a great alarm. 2 Post a friend with the bikes during bathroom breaks 3 Relock the bikes together during food breaks with them always in sight. 4 Have fun.

If your're near a trail town, a hostel will secure a car or bicycle for a fee. Plus you can get a shuttle to/from the trail. Works best along the AT, but any "trail town" has hostels.

Simply taking the front wheels inside your tent (and locking multiple bikes together) has to be an additional deterrent.

Instead of the 1k potentiometer, use a window alarm magnet switch or a home made always-off switch which turns on if the bike is moved by surprise.

Find a way to clip it into the saddle or under the frame.

The alarm consumes 0 watts at idle. 3 small panasonic lithiums will last 10 years in idle at 3.8* 3v so its easy to keep the alarm armed.

Buy these items for 5 dollars at any electronics store, or salvage a 12V horn from a scrapyard from a motorbike... Even old PC's have a buzzer like this, it's less loud though.

Instructions: Buy a piezo buzzer which does 95dB - 120dB. Make a sprung electrical contact which can be jammed open using a plastic insert the size of an SD Card. keep an invisible nylon fishing line and a hook which hides away until you need to set the slarm. To set the alarm, attach the fishing line and hook to the rear spoke and the plastic card which will pull out if the wheel turns, triggering a 120dB alarm.

You can also buy complete window magnet alarms for 1 dollar online which include all pieces.

A gps tracker costs 25... actually there are some for 15 euros. Problem is if it ends up in a 20 story tower block.

Buy a piezo buzzer which does 95dB or 120dB and make it into an alarm... power it with any 9-12v battert of 30-50 grams. Make an electrical contact which can be jammed open using a plastic insert the size of an SD Card. Attach an invisible nylon fishing line and a hook which hides away until you need to set the slarm. Then attach the hook to a spoke and the plastic card will pull out if the wheel turns, triggering a 120dB alarm. 3 small panasonic lithiums will last 10 years in idle at 3.8* 3v so its easy to keep the alarm armed.